Ésteres de aroma a partir de lipases imobilizadas: encapsulação e incorporação em matriz têxtil

Abstract

This project developed a functional textile through the incorporation of encapsulated natural fragrances, obtained from the synthesis of esters catalyzed by immobilized lipases. The selected matrix was a viscose nonwoven, functionalized with microcapsules containing ethyl butyrate, a fruity-aroma ester. The work integrated concepts of biocatalysis, encapsulation, and textile finishing, aiming to create materials with controlled aroma release. The fungus Botryosphaeria ribis EC-01 was cultivated for lipase production under optimized conditions, and the enzyme was immobilized on a metal-oxide support (Ni₀.₅Zn₀.₅Co₂O₄) to enhance its stability and enable reuse. Enzymatic activity was determined through the hydrolysis of p-nitrophenyl palmitate. Subsequently, the immobilized lipase was employed in the esterification of butanoic acid and ethanol, yielding ethyl butyrate. A commercial sample of the ester was encapsulated by a physical method using porous MCM-41-type materials. After drying and stabilization, the microcapsules were applied to the textile substrate using the pad-dry technique. The final material was evaluated in terms of incorporation and thermal stability. This study is situated within the context of technical and functional textiles, with potential applications in hygiene, healthcare, cosmetics, and well-being. The originality of the project lies in the combination of enzymatic fragrance synthesis and its application to textile substrates by nanoencapsulation, using reagents and processes with lower environmental impact. The research also contributes to the valorization of agro-industrial residues, such as soybean meal, used as a fermentation substrate, and to advancements in textile sustainability. Overall, the project achieved good enzymatic activity, a low esterification conversion rate, and an innovative material with prolonged aroma release and potential commercial application.